It's six months since I was last in East Africa. I'm at home, sitting outside on a clear, warm winter's day in the green Santa Monica Mountains of southern California. But even though it’s a beautiful day in a beautiful setting, I'm yearning to be back on a dusty, bone-dry lake bed in East Africa. I'm looking at some photos of an elephant on my contact sheets, an elephant that I photographed those six months ago. And I'm wondering how she's faring. How her herd is faring. This isn't sentimentality on my part. I wish that's all it was.
When I was last there, in Kenya's Amboseli National Park, it was July. Barely into the long dry season that lasts until November. But already, what has become an unpleasant annual drama was unfolding.
Every morning, my guide and I would drive out onto the vast dry lake bed. There we would wait for a sight that hypnotizes me more than any other here in Africa: one elephant herd after another coming down out of the hills circling Amboseli, where they quietly cross the lake bed in long caravan-like lines toward the marshes at the center of the park. But most mornings, we wouldn't see those elephant herds. We would see something quite different. It would start as distant plumes of dust. But gradually they would grow. And grow. And grow. Until 180 degrees of view across the lake bed was dominated by this dust. Getting closer, until finally, through the heat mirage, the cause of the dust was revealed. An unending line of shimmering black shapes.
Cattle. Tens of thousands of them. The Maasai were bringing their vast herds of cattle into the park, the National Park, to water. And the dry season had not even really begun. Inexplicably, it seemed, no-one from the Kenya Wildlife Service, which manages the park, stopped them.
And the elephants? They're frightened of the cattle's owners, the human beings. Because, of course, when the elephants are outside the park, they're unprotected, and being unprotected, sometimes, inevitably, something bad happens to them. They get shot by poachers. They get speared by herdsmen protecting their cattle. As a result, the numbers of giant bulls, with their glorious majestic tusks that can reach down to the ground, have dwindled to just a handful. Elephants leave the park, because it's really pretty small, to go foraging for fresh food. And at some point, something happens, and they never come back.
If you look at my photos of elephant herds crossing the lake bed, what you're not seeing is something that happens with ever-greater frequency : their crossings being aborted by these giant herds of cattle also crossing the lake bed to drink the same water. The elephants become frightened and retreat back into the hills, away from the water and food they need. If it's as tough as this in the most famous park for elephants in Africa, you can imagine what it's like outside the parks.